Yogyakarta tetap membuatku rindu untuk kembali

Tak bosan-bosannya saya berlibur ke Yogyakarta, meski seputar kota saja untuk kuliner dan sekedar berburu batik dan oleh-oleh. Kami bertiga naik Kereta Sancaka dari Surabaya, pukul 08.00 pagi. 
 

Stasiun Tugu 5 jam kemudian, pusat makanan tradisional depan stasiun dekat pos polisi Malioboro jadi pilihan. Sate ayam, versi Madura dengan bumbu kacang yang kental, irisan bawang merah segar ditambah kecap manis, cukup mengenyangkan. Harga  terbilang cukup mahal, pasrah karena lapar.

Poncowinatan, hotel sederhana, bersih, dekat tugu dan pasar, tujuan kami bermalam. Setelah registrasi, taruh koper, ganti tas ringan, lanjut jalan kaki menuju monument tugu, lupa akan lelahnya berkereta, tak mau ketinggalan berfoto.

Jalan sedikit, foto lagi depan Restorant Hondje yang berbangunan model jaman Belanda, dengan outlet tas Dowa yang terkenal itu. Tibalah di jalanan Malioboro, padat dan macet. Malas belanja.

Menjelang senja, isi bensin di lesehan dekat pasar Bringharjo. Perlu tenaga sampai tengah malam, rasa nomer sekian. Sore ini 31 Desember. Semua bersiap-siap menyambut malam Tahun Baru di titik nol kilometer. Gudeg jadi-jadian, mie, tahu tempe bacem ala kadarnya tetap kami syukuri.

Saya pribadi sudah 3 kali  menikmati malam pergantian tahun, ditemani kacang rebus dan pisang goreng. Baru jam 7 namun kami sudah duduk manis di seberang gedung BNI. Sayangnya kakak teman bosan menunggu, dia ajak pindah tempat. Padahal sudah penuh orang. Pengalaman saya berkata untuk tetap disitu saja tidak mempan. Akhirnya kami ikuti saja maunya. Dan terjadilah yang saya inginkan, pembuktian, sudah tidak bisa jalan kemana-mana. Lautan manusia terus berdatangan dari 4 penjuru, dari malioboro, keraton, kantor pos dan Bank BNI. Ya sudahlah. Berdiri diam ujung benteng Vredenburg.

Hitung mundur, 10987654321, kembang api berlomba meluncur, pandangan ke atas, warna-warni dan gemuruh berhentakan. Tangan-tangan sibuk ambil foto semaksimal mungkin, tak lupa bersalam-salaman selamat tahun baru 2015.

Kembali ke penginapan, harus berjuang lewati lautan manusia, akhirmya kami menyerah, becak motor kami panggil di ujung jalan Malioboro. Penat  melupakan ucapan selamat yang belum terkirim.

Pagi menjelang, sarapan nasi goreng, kerupuk,  semangka, boleh ambil bebas. Duduk di tempat makan yang kurang nyaman, karena terletak di depan kamar-kamar dengan kamar mandi disamping kamar sehingga kami bisa mendengar orang mandi, orang gosok gigi dan sepintas orang BAB, hiksss. Mungkin perlu perbaikan management hotel dalam merancang lokasi tempat makan.

Pasar Bringharjo tujuan pertama. Becak bertiga sekitar 20.000 rupiah. Tergoda sarapan nasi pecel. Sayur mayur hijau menggunung, tempe, tahu bacem, gorengan masih sanggup masuk perut. Belanja batik, tawar-menawar, putar-putar sambangi para kios.

Toko berikutnya Mirota Batik, tepat depan pasar Bringharjo. Ada kain, busana, pernik tradisional khas Yogyakarta, tak lupa bakpia mini raminten. Tetap penuh sesak namun berAC. Jadi ceritanya kami ingin mendinginkan badan. Nuansa jawa kental oleh musik gamelan, lagu jawa, ya iyalah. Bau dupa menyan kembang tercium sesekali. Terima kasih Tuhan, daripada mencium bau keringat tujuh turunan, maaf berlebihan.

Kami langsung ke lantai tiga, makan siang di restorant Oyot Godhong, lesehan, bangku kayu, bau kembang setaman dan ornament kayu. Rindu gado-gado Yogya, agak berbeda dengan versi Surabaya dan Jakarta, yang lain pesan bakso, nasi rames, es dawet dan wedang uwuh (sampah bahasa Indonesia), wedang khas campuran serpihan kayu secang dan rempah-rempah, cocok untuk menghangatkan badan. Berasa minum serpihan kayu. Unik.

Masih ingin oleh-oleh. Naik 2 becak kayuh. Jalanan di Yogyakarta yang naik turun membuat si tukang becak paruh baya kelelahan. Faktor kasihan alasan kami memilihnya. Dua pabrik bakpia kami datangi. Bakpia 75 lebih tebal kulitnya, bakpia 55 lebih tipis, namun keduanya menghasilkan rasa kacang hijau yang sedap. Konon, bakpia kurnia sari, kulitnya berwarna hijau, rasanya lebih ok namun untuk saya tetap bakpia 75 yang top. Maaf bukan promosi, ini selera subyektif saya.

Malamnya kami di taman lampion dekat Monumen Yogya Kembali (Monjali), naik taxi, lupakan ala backpacker, pertimbangan malam hari, tidak tahu jalan dan jauh sekali dari hotel. Bayar 90ribu pulang pergi. Bayar karcis, masuk disambut bentuk-bentuk pohon, binatang, orang, wajah presiden-presiden Indonesia diberi hiasan lampu-lampu gemerlap. Sayang kamera kami kurang kuat menangkap cahaya dan gelap sehingga kurang maksimal. Tak banyak yang bisa kami nikmati apalagi permainan anak dan gerai camilan ringan. Saat pulang agak kesulitan mencari taxi,jarang mangkal dan lewat. Mohon transportasi dipermudah dengan shuttle bus.

Hari terakhir di Yogya. Setelah sarapan, bergegas kami pergi ke resto Raminten deket kali Code, yang sedang naik daun, karena keunikan makanan dan minumannya, konon harus antri menunggu dengan sabar, lebih baik tidak sedang lapar.  Semangat jalan kaki, tidak terlalu jauh. Masih sepi, dan itu yang diharapkan leluasa pilih duduk. Kami pesan ayam koteka, daging ayam yang sudah dihaluskan dimasukkan ke dalam buluh bamboo sehingga sepintas memanjang seperti koteka, juga susu rempah-rempah yang dihidangkan dalam cangkir berbentuk payudara bernama Perawan Tancep. Puas. Kami lalu bergegas keluar. Tepat jam 11, pengunjung sudah mengular di luar.

Sebelah resto, ada Mirota Bakery, mata berbinar-binar membeli roti, jajanan pasar dan kue mini aneka rupa ,masih grup Raminten. Saya beli kue kipo khas Yogyakarta, berasal dari sebutan Iki Opo (ini apa) merujuk pada bentuknya yang kecil-kecil, orang heran dan bertanya, dari tepung ketan, parutan kelapa dan gula merah namun dipanggang bukan dikukus seperti klepon.

100 meter setelahnya kami mampir museum Sandi, museum ini baru berdiri sekitar 6 bulan, belum banyak dikunjungi. Banyaknya wisatawan ke Raminten tidak menggelitik mereka untuk singgah. Mungkin kurang promosi.  Setengah jam di museum ini, guide menerangkan sejarah persandian Indonesia,  behubungan dengan kedudukan Yogyakarta di jaman perang. Kami tambah ilmu, selain kuliner, oleh-oleh dan kenangan.

Matahari diatas kepala, kami berpisah. Kereta Sancaka siang ini sedangkan saya nanti malam jam 7 dengan kereta Arya Dwipangga tujuan Jakarta.

Saya pergi makan siang di restoran Bale Raos, ingin mencicipi menu raja keraton. Letaknya dekat Taman Sari. Naik becak dari depan jalan Malioboro sekitar 30.000 rupiah. Model restoran terbuka, seperti duduk di teras rumah-rumah Belanda jaman dulu, tanpa AC, dekorasi etnik, tempat duduk kayu, taplak batik, nuansa jawa tetap menghiasi tempat ini namun didisain ekslusif serasa tempat makan berkelas.

Tertarik dengan Singgang Ayam, sate bumbu rempah, cukup direbus tapi tetap ditusuk,  dan teh rempah, lagi-lagi untuk menghangatkan badan, dessertnya pudding dari buah coklat. Harga kebanyakan diatas 20 ribu dengan porsi sedang ala hotel bintang 5 . Tak apalah untuk mengobati rasa penasaran saya sebelum pulang.

Shijack?esmasuk?selat Solo?

The day was coming. Wedding day of my best friend in Solo, central Java. She invited me and some friends. We had to go. I liked it. I already imagined and had short plan about what we should do there. Travelling? of course. But, plan was plan. Closed to the day, one of friend could not stay overnight. Thus, plan was changed. By car, we went on very early morning, still accompanied by misty road on the way long there, to catch wedding mass at church then went back home after that. Again, plan was not fulfilled. We were late arriving Solo due traffic jam and a minute stop to have breakfast. Nasi pecel. It was still same product with my hometown dish. No need to tell you. Still contain of vegetables, rice, liquid peanuts sausage and soybean chip.

First arrival, went to Alun-alun (big hall of Surakarta kingdom), then went to Pasar Klewer just in a glance to see batiks. But I was not interested in as they sell also modern clothes too. I prefer to Bringharjo Yogya, more completed. Then, we stopped by at Surakarta kraton (Kingdom palace). I did not like it either. It was not really good. Dirty, dark, sounds no life there. How can we support hospitality aim in Indonesia? Keraton Surakarta as one of the stronghold of Javanese culture place is opened daily, actually, to be adored by visitors. They can visit museum, art gallery where some precious collections were exhibited such as dagger (keris), masks, leather puppets, batiks fabric.

Well, it was enough to feel sorry about our culture and history place. Lets go eating. Then, we went to have lunch at Esmasuk restaurant. Traditional food, javanese, Solo taste of course. We got the information from internet and recomendation from some friends.

Selat Solo was we ordered first, actually it was one of the more famous dishes. Selat Solo was basically an Indonesia-nized version of beef steak.
It actually looked more like stew than a steak. Indonesia was colonized by the Dutch for more than three centuries so this was one of those dishes that is a hybrid of Dutch and Indonesian cuisine. It consisted of beef steak, potatoes, green bean, baby carrot, "sosis solo", sweet soy sauce, and some sour ketchup, mixed. This restaurant offered 2 menus. Selat Solo original and galantine. It looked like beef wrapped by egg omellete.

Second food was timlo solo. This food tasted like soup, not chicken soup flavour but javanese soup. It consists of flour noodle slices, mushrooms, carrots, snow peas, inocarpus blossoms / Javanese sausage and finaly splash with warm sauce which allows to be a very delicious food to be tasted.

We also tried to eat the traditional snack called sosis solo. The shape was like a sausage but it was mixed by egg,vegetables,spices,egg, potato, carrot, oil, salt, young bamboo then wrapped by lumpia skin sheet. To end this noon before taking a rest we drank fruit ice, even the fruits was not complete, not assorted and not much but we thought it was enough to end our lunch.


The Noon run to evening then night. It was time to leave this city after attending the Javanese wedding party at Dana Hotel which placed in main road of this capital of Central Java. Some traditional dancing, traditional ceremony, traditional music and food were represented there. It was completely great. I got new experience on how Solo traditional wedding party was held. We were enjoying. Met and greeted with old friends, also took some pictures to memorize ours.


Before leaving, we stopped by at ShiJack, fresh milk restaurant at sidewalk.


It was recommended by friend.It was very famous. It was not worth it to go Solo if we did not go there. You might be agree with me. Thanks to friend who took us there. As I never know this place from web? Is it? Had some small snack and drank big glass of ginger fresh milk, after choosing the funny menus that stated on their banner. Well, it was enjoyable for Saturday night. stomach was full, energy was fulfilled, it was time to be back home.

Finally, arrived hometown was welcomed by sun rise at the east.Thanks Solo, we will be back again soon, who's next wedding party? Wondering... Even this story was happened a month ago but I am still remember my short experience.

Good Friday! Good for me

Tired of yesterday, I was packing in early morning, not the night before. Took a bath, got dressed and bye, bye, I was going!. Yogya I was coming! Train departed on 7, but on 6.30 a.m I was still waiting for taxi, oops I got bemo, then walked for 5 minutes as bemo route did not pass the Gubeng station route. Actually I wanted to continue it by becak but becak asked for 5000rupiahs for short way. Te erg!! Train went on time. Economic train, 2nd class. Pay 80thousand for pick season. Limited facility. A cup of water only. No cycling chair. No air condition. Winds came from window and fan only. Seller could come inside offering nasi pecel (rice and vegetables poured by peanuts dressing), nasi rames (rice and chicken spicy sauce) for about 2000-3000 rupiahs, getuk pisang (banana swwt steamed loaf), wingko babat (mixed of flour and coconut to be solid nugget).

Forgot a less facility. Just thanking God for let me enjoyed the short journey for about 5 and half hours. There was a lot of rice field scenery such as Javanese traditional homes at villages, sugar cane plantation, kangkung (leavy plantation on water), buffaloes wallowed in mudhole, duck grazed, small wooden house full of people made white bricks, farmer harvest. Wait! I could see another farmer activity when they had harvest. Started to plant rice, plowed field using traditional way by using buffalo or modern way by using tractor, and fertilized.

Train route was Surabaya, Krian, Mojokerto, Jombang, Kertosono, Nganjuk, Madiun, Sragen, Solo, Delanggu, Klaten. And Yogya as the last destination. Yupii….But my camera had limited facility either. I couldn’t take a picture when train run so fast. All was blur!

Spending time in reading Paris Pandora of Fira Basuki to avoid boringness. Could not sleep. I didn’t know why. Too excited I thought. Besides me was a woman with her 3 friends. Sometimes they chatted and gossip. Woman habit! What a lovely shinny half day in train.(Yk 10 April)

A little journey to Yogyakarta

Easter holiday brought me to Yogya for 3 days, started on Friday morning then ended up on Sunday afternoon. Just wanted to find another air, let myself forgot my daily activity for a while. Actually, it is nothing surprised by choosing this town as I ever went there many times. Considered my money was only enough for spending time in this area thus I chose Y o g y a .....
Eventhough I bought train ticket 3 weeks ago before going but I was still unlucky as I couldn’t get first class train. It was OK, I cheered up myself. I went on full of energy and spirit. No problem for what I got. Economic class of Sancaka train. When I went back to Surabaya under full of tiredness, using executive train, Argo Wilis from Bandung via Yogya, was a benefit as I could feel comfortable, no sweat, get lunch and have a rest.
Plan was plan! Nobody knows what happened next. See guys!! My go home journey on train was quite interrupted by a bunch of ladies and gentleman from teacher group. They talked each other and laughed loudly. It seemed they had a lot of gasoline inside the body. Machine run fast! Oh my God! I couldn’t sleep well. Some passenger chose to put earphone in and listen to the music.

Stayed 2 nights at Kristina Hotel,Dagen street. Rp 125.000 for single room with AC, hot water and TV. Not bad. Considered that I would do a lot of activity outside hotel thus I thought the facility was good enough


Met a friend from Bandung for a while at malioboro mall. A while? Yes, as I had to go to mass when she came. I was sorry as I have no enough time to meet her. But another friend came and be together till Sunday and we went home separately using different transportation.

No new thing was offered by Yogya handicraft, it was still same like last year, you know... vintage batik bag, plait bag, so I didn’t buy much, just 2 pieces hotpants and slipper. The rest was gift for friends and family.

The main activity was attending 3 Holy Days. As white Thursday mass had already been in Surabaya, I went to Good Friday and Easter Saturday night mass at Fransiscus Xaverius Catholic church Kidul Loji, close to Malioboro.

Twice attending Easter night at same church, last year and this year, my friend and me were quite surprised as duration of the mass was longer than duration in Surabaya. I was quite sleepy and headache for standing from sleepyness..Beginning at 9 pm then it stop at late midnight. Thnaks God for letting us celebrate risen of Jesus Christ. HAPPY EASTER!
(my story 10-12 April)

Left story at the end of 2008 journey (part1) : Pringsewu 71km

5 hours from Bandung to Pangandaran, through Nagreg, Garut, Ciamis, Banjar then Pangandaran. It was a tired journey but full of laughter, impression, seriousness and sadness. Laughter of funny talking, joking and screaming, girls talked, gossip, you know! The part of seriousness happened when we shared our opinion about parents, lovers, politic. Then the part of sadness came up when one of our friend who was not in good condition, headache and puke for her body weakness. Don't miss the good part of impression of beautiful scenery, sunrise (imagine we started to go by car on 3.30 early morning) then from Garut to Ciamis we passed curving road, hill, mountain then sun rose behind the mountain. Arrived Banjar, we got confused when we reached the three way intersection. Went straight or turned right? Fortunately, we found kind handsome policeman help us… Turned right ladies otherwise you would like to go to Cilacap…

There was something interested in us. Pringsewu yellow small billboard. We stuck our mind on it as we always saw it every single metre of left side way. It provided some words that made us feel odd. What was it? Some billboard showed food menu of Pringsewu like roasted fish - gurami (gurami bakar), fried rice (nasi goreng), sweet tea (teh manis), some showed warning: watch out of fly (awas lalat), eat clean and healty food (makanlah makanan yang bersih), some showed the kilometers of the Pringsewu. Well, Pringsewu was a garden restaurant in Cilacap. I thought they were excellent in advertising their restaurant. When we arrived Banjar city, it was still one hour to reach it. We chased time to go Pangandaran and keen to arrive soon. Sorry, maybe next time!

One fine day in Yogya

yummi...


tamansari







It was lovely Sunday morning. Sky was so blue. Sun shined brightly. She showed her soft gold color and smooth touchy.
I hadn’t had breakfast yet. It was better to fill my stomach up before I was getting headache. Planned to do short journey, it required full energy as I would have many activities by foot and via public transportation.

Arriving Kaliurang in the morning. Breathed fresh air. Felt the warm sunshine. Heard the melodius voice of birds and mountain insect. Thank God for let me through this day… Anyway, this resort was located on the slopes of Mt. Merapi, 24 km north of Yogyakarta and surrounded by an enchanting countryside. It lied at the foot of Plawangan hill on the southern slope of mount Merapi, some 28 km, north of Yogyakarta.

Fresh air of Kaliurang brought my step to feel the atmosphere of Beukenhof Restaurant. It located beside Ulen Sentallu museum. Yummy…sandwich and small sweet pancake. Both buildings were belongs to Javanese person who loved his homeland very much. Mr. Thomas Haryonagoro. The buildings were architecturally designed and built from local stone, sheltered by trees and featuring walkways, large courtyard spaces and gardens. So homey.
Brief summary of Ullen Sentalu that it was museum of Javanese art and culture.
Inside, you could see historical photographs of the palace, images of people, many oil paintings, including painted portraits of various sultans, their wives. and memorable events during the colonial era, various artifacts, and being displayed in glass cabinets were the actual items of clothing being worn in the portraits. Fantastic!
You also could find batik styles of Yogyakarta, Surakarta, and Chinese influence from the northern coastal towns of Java, and traditional Javanese wedding garb which was displayed and had a meaning. Again, waow, only that word came repeatedly from my mouth. Couldn’t count how much! 1, 2, …..100, I didn’t know.

Gentle sound of "Telogo Muncar" waterfall capture my mind to be back to yesterday morning. Same menu, I laughed by myself as I ate sandwich in Omah Dhuwur resto Kotagede. Kotagede? Silver craft center, friends….

It was better to go on pleasure by visiting another place. TransYogya busway brought me slowly since it had to stop over certain shelter to put in and out passenger. Finally I was ended in front of Bringharjo traditional market which was placed in point of Malioboro. Well known pedestrian street.

I set myself in front of some old buildings in the intersection of Malioboro and Sultan Palace a.k.a Kraton. Let read my story. Keep attention. I was serious. I meant it. No,no,no just kidding. I was just influenced by spirit of that buildings, and my sense moved around, back and forth, from the past to present time.

1st, Vredeburg Fortress! This fortress was built by Sultan to fulfill Dutch colony’s request, by this fortress they could watch Kraton more easily and as a defender fortress. But it is museum now. This ford becomes Museum Khusus Perjuangan Nasional by the name of Museum Benteng Yogyakarta.
2nd, Kantor Pos Besar (Big Post Office). In Dutch period, it was used as a post office and telecommunication center.
3rd, Representative office of Indonesia Bank firstly used as de Indische Bank office.
4th, BNI Bank, previously was Nill Maattschappij office and De Javasche Bank, but now it’s used as BNI Bank. Those old buildings were still in good condition and the architecture of their exterior even also does not get much changing.

My last visit for finishing this afternoon was coming to Water Castle, also known by the Dutch name waterkasteel (water castle).or Taman Sari, the Sultan's (king) recreation garden.

My guide told me completely and clearly. Of course, it was absolutely his job.
Formerly Tamansari was a recreation garden or a resting house for the Sultan and Family, about 2 km south of Yogyakarta Palace, this garden was built by Portuguese architect in European aquatic construction adorned with Javanese Symbolize ornaments. Tamansari was built in the Sultan Hamengku Buwono I period in the end of 17th Century. It's become a recreation area, a compound of bathing pool, canals, rooms at that time.
And what the king did there? The King would take a bath in the pool with a lot of pretty girls. And only one girl, whom he really likes, would be then invited to another private pool, having a private bath with him. Or, king would watch his girls swim from his private tower then he chose one of them to be his all night partner. Waow!

Tired!! I had to go back to hotel, using my time to refresh my body and soul. Before taking a bath, I spent it on swimming at Ibis hotel swimming pool. Yihaa….